As Demna Gvasalia embraces his true self, igniting his flair once more, joy and humor are found at the heart of the French fashion house, Balenciaga.
After a self-redemption displayed through numerous serious collections, focusing on the core values of fashion – bespoke artistry, Demna Gvasalia finally makes his triumphant return! The Pre-Fall 2024 show, reminiscent of a glamorous Hollywood, served as the first shot fired, paving the way for Balenciaga Fall 2024 within the realm of Paris Fashion Week. Despite debates following controversial advertising campaigns, it’s unanimously agreed that when Demna is serious, Balenciaga simultaneously becomes less mundane. From Demna’s antics to his disruption of the classical legacy left by Cristóbal Balenciaga, there’s no denying his impact in expanding the brand’s identity, making it a leading voice in contemporary fashion discourse. The talented creative director empowers clothing with a unique authority – allowing the wearer to boldly express themselves and have a “voice” in society. They embody resistance to injustices and societal issues, much like Demna’s imaginative rebellion against traditional fashion norms.
This noble mission is once again articulated through 68 complete looks. Returning to his roots, Demna leaves the fashion world intrigued from the invitations to the illuminated runway. Balenciaga Fall 2024 invites viewers with a package from eBay, containing a distinctive vintage item handpicked by Demna himself. It might be a forgotten holiday snow globe, a singular fork, or perhaps a long-lost lover’s kitchen spoon. Each invitation carries the weight of untold stories and promises to connect us to the emotional essence of humanity. These items, once personal relics, now serve as gateways to a pinnacle of luxurious fashion experience.
In a world questioning “What is luxury?” and amid ongoing crises questioning the importance of fashion, Balenciaga stands as Demna’s high-stakes decision, a gamble played out with “What can I buy under $20 on eBay?” Demna engages in a conversation with the media: “As you know, I like to ask questions about things that matter to me through my work, and some questions I’ve been thinking about lately are: What is extravagance? What is fashion, and why does it matter? Who am I doing this for? Is fashion enough? In an information-overloaded world, does the concept of ‘enough’ still exist? What is enough? The important part is not necessarily finding the answers but the process of asking questions. By definition, extravagance is a type of scarcity, something not always readily available. What seems genuinely scarce and finite today is actually creativity. I believe creativity has quietly become a new form of extravagance. I want this show to demonstrate the connection between Balenciaga’s past and future, as a place that values creativity.”
As Demna shared, Balenciaga Fall 2024 begins with silhouettes and ideas directly inspired by Cristobal’s legacy, evolving into deeper experiments reflective of Demna’s own ten-year journey in fashion. “This collection speaks to an aesthetic I’ve developed in fashion over the past decade. It’s also about the importance of fashion to me,” Demna explains.
This season, Balenciaga disrupts the core foundation of high fashion, once again proving that luxury isn’t solely defined by exclusive materials but also by audacious layering combinations that defy any rule, much like the randomness found on eBay. Imagine strutting down the street in an outfit valued at $3,000, only to find it’s a “collection” of $10 T-shirts and $20 jeans meticulously stacked by Demna to create diverse looks ranging from everyday wear to evening attire. It’s not just fashion; it’s an “archeological excavation” through eBay’s history, unearthing forgotten wardrobes to clothe the elite. It’s not merely recycling old clothes into new ones; it’s the process of “re-luxuriating” what should have been discarded into coveted pieces desired by the fashion elite.
Demna redefines extravagance in a world simulating our information-overloaded lives. The show’s setting is filled with short videos akin to TikTok, showcasing a variety of content from various topics worldwide. The information chaos in the presentation space screams, “We’re on the brink of apocalypse, but at least we’ll be fashionably dressed.” It resembles a scene from a sci-fi movie before the hero’s demise, a doomsday orchestrated by Demna for the fashion world to savor.
In stark contrast to the tense, suffocating atmosphere of the show, Demna releases models onto the runway carefree, nonchalantly strolling, chewing gum, wearing silicon masks with futuristic vibes, preparing to enter a world “overfed” by data. Their characteristic playfulness remains evident. They wear floor-length dresses made from a series of hoodies or T-shirts; coats, shirts, and blazers worn like aprons or pinafores; shirts “stir-fried” from a dusty old pair of jeans as well as sweatpants.
Balenciaga’s men also indulge in oversized sportswear, Gothic oversized styles with classical flair, loose-fitting coats, padded and squared-off, languid like a silk bathrobe; inside are T-shirts with entertaining quotes, doubling as promotional tactics for the brand – “Keep Calm and Wear This Balenciaga Sweater.” Balenciaga even turns eBay into a legitimate fashion brand by emblazoning its logo on the left chest of a black T-shirt. Equally intriguing in the collection are the “frozen” pleated dresses, as if vacuum-sealed and worn by the models.
The maximum exaggeration of familiar silhouettes is no longer seen on the runway; instead, they give way to the spectacular layering combinations. Demna has models wear a mishmash of random online purchases. They layer clothes not based on proportion, color, or material but primarily on whim. It’s a bold statement about wealth, a rebellion against the constraints of traditional fashion, where creativity becomes recognized as a form of extravagance. The padded shoulders, once robust and square, also deviate from the norm, debuting as “hip-aulette” inspired by Cristóbal Balenciaga’s classical founder’s structure. The shoulder pads draw more attention when shifted down to the hips, bouncing beneath evening gowns.
Taking place in an information clutter, yet viewers follow the show to its final moments, recognizing bold design strokes, material blends, and silhouettes. Seams in the near-final looks are replaced by adhesive tape wrapped around the body; or a cocktail dress made from a scarf, a bit of a bikini, and underwear.
If previously, Demna stirred the online community with a leather dress patched from multiple iconic brand bags, then at Balenciaga Fall 2024, all eyes in the fashion world are focused on a lingerie dress in the literal sense. Meanwhile, some looks are created from a backpack, a reverse-worn backpack, or familiar storage bags. If previously, Demna stirred the online community with a leather dress patched from multiple iconic brand bags, then at Balenciaga Fall 2024, all eyes in the fashion world are focused on a lingerie dress in the literal sense. It is assembled from countless pieces of lingerie, unrestricted by quantity to reflect the current societal reality of “overconsumption.” The disorderly arrangement signifies Demna’s manifesto in fashion and art: “What’s more important, perfection or imperfection? For me, it’s actually the coexistence of both because that’s what makes us human today – imperfection, failure, or ‘flaws.’ I like that idea. I think it’s beautiful. It’s what makes us different from machines.”
While immersed in his new creative idea transmission, Demna doesn’t forget the creative material left by the founder, Cristobal Balenciaga. Cristobal’s legacy is echoed in the way three hoodies are combined into a dress, with a mermaid tail, reminiscent of Balenciaga’s iconic “bubble dress.”
Balenciaga Fall 2024 concludes by challenging us to find beauty in the mundane, luxury in discarded items. This collection is not just a fashion statement; it’s a lifestyle, a philosophy that only Demna can create, a testament to the power of layering technique. Through the brand’s namesake style, Demna once again successfully “breaks down” all traditional rules about elegance in fashion.