This month, brands showcased at Fashion Week can be divided into two distinct types: practical and dreamy. What sets them apart is the ability to transform even the most inconvenient items into symbols of utility – the satchel bag.
Spacious, brimming with tiny pockets all around, made of thick leather, folded and slung down the model’s forearm as if too heavy to be worn over the shoulder, it reminds us of countless times the strap of our favorite bag slipped off and we had to carry it by hand. As they say, “one man’s trash is another man’s treasure,” and thus carrying oversized bags by hand like Jane Birkin has become more luxurious than ever. Prada and Miu Miu, although among the last brands to present this season, are certainly leading the trend by introducing large-sized bags on the runway, sometimes hung on the crook of the arm or hugged across the hip. Younger brands like Acne Studios and Undercover have also joined the “love for generosity” wave.
For FW24, Jun Takahashi brought back one of the past silhouettes to Paris Fashion Week, such as the beloved postman bag, a shoulder bag with a metal clasp to express reverence for classic aesthetics like indie sleaze and twee.
Ferragamo, under the era of Maximilian Davis, paired shoulder bags in matching tones with outfits, blending perfectly with the appearance, while at Marine Serre, they were covered with the brand’s crescent moon symbol. Even Kiko Kostadinov, where function turns into a distinctive feature, found inspiration from the timeless elegance of the postman bag created by designers Laura and Deanna Fanning with an oversized version in brown and bright yellow trim. At Hermés, the satchel bag remains unchanged as it has been used for many years, and Chloé, under the new creative direction of Chemena Kamali, also introduced hobo bags and shoulder bags with convenient small compartments on the outside.
Three iconic brands for satchel bags – not by chance – are three globally recognized fashion brands with extremely pioneering approaches in accessory design. Balenciaga has created an essential bag in smooth black leather with thin shoulder straps, Bottega Veneta chooses to explore the boundary between handbags and tote bags, significantly enlarging the size of accessories, accompanied by the brand’s signature intrecciato weave, while Diesel follows an artistic style.
Creative director Glenn Martens’ motivation is to use icy hues, from mint green to snow blue, to bring denim and leather shoulder bags to the runway with complete luxury. Looking at the latest fashion runways, it seems like the days of disco girls having to squeeze a small lip gloss into Jacquemus’ signature Chiquito bag (also small) are long gone.